Installing casing trim around door openings and window frames can be a bit more difficult if you are looking for a professional looking finish. Certain techniques need to be employed to be sure the trim is cut to the exact form fitting precision, and using the right tools are necessary to ensure the job can be done quickly and smoothly.
Casing trim must be installed around all door openings first, before any baseboard trim can be laid down. The baseboard will then butt up against the casing for a nice looking finish. All casing should be ideally painted or stained finished before the install, as painting it afterwards can be more tedious.
Having the proper tools are an important part of a clean and efficient install. The typical measuring tape and pencil are your staple tools, along with a hammer and nail set. Have the appropriate length finishing nails for the thickness of your trim. For a standard sized casing trim, have 1 1/2" nails and 1" finishing nails. Having an electric chop saw, or miter saw is important, along with a small step ladder. It will usually take many cuts to achieve the perfect fit and a hand saw and mitering block will be more difficult to use efficiently. Finally, if your casing will have a painted finish, you have the luxury of using a paintable caulking to hide all seams and cracks for the ultimate clean install. Have a caulking gun and the necessary amount of caulking in a color that best matches your wall or casing color.
For a door trim casing install, start with the two vertical trim pieces first. Obviously there is a gap between the edge of the drywall and the finished door frame. Ideally we would like to cover this leaving the trim about 3/16" back from the inside edge of the finished door frame.
Now, assuming your door frame angles are approximately 90 degrees, cut the top of the casing piece at a 45 degree angle. Keep the shorter side on the inside and the longer side of the cut on the outside, of course. Don't forget to allow for the 3/16" spacing for the top board. The best way to do this is to stand the trim piece up on end, in place, and mark with a sharp pencil, on the inside side of the trim, a little tick at the appropriate height. Make your miter cut at a 45, using this pencil tick as a guide; it's important to be precise here. There's nothing wrong with cutting it a bit "long" to start, test fit it, and then working your way down bit by bit until the proper length is reached.
Nail the board to use two sizes of nails. Use nails 1 ½ "nails on the outside of the trim behind the jack stud, and get one made," nails on the inside trim, nail to the door frame finished. Use the set all the nails from 1 "to 2" apart, or as required, and counter sink the nails. Do the same with the trim piece on the other side of the door.
This is just the top piece between the two fitHips and 45 degrees followed. I like to cut one end of the top molding 45 and a test suitable for this purpose. It 'a good helper to keep the other end of the game up as they control the shape. If you have another theme for your help, we can firmly on a chair, standing or even a sturdy table. Make sure that the trim horizontally in line with the upper door frame, approximately 3.16 "on the lips. Accedes to the angled end only fit a smooth, flat seamline. Otherwise, you must make a cut with a slightly different angle, to compensate.
Replace pages with your help and mark the cut obliquely to the other side. The top piece overlap the side pieces, so you will be able to cut in line-ups and mark the top and bottom for the exact angle. Set the saw for the angle of the case measured not expect 45 degrees, use the angle measured. Make the cut about ¼ too long, and then check the mounting angle, with a helperhold the other end up again. If the angle was correct, whittle cut bit by bit, until the trim piece fits snugly and perfectly between the two side casings and nail it home. The same technique can be used for window trim, except the bottom piece will be like the top piece.
If there were any imperfections or crack lines exposed, use the caulking to runs beads around all sides of the casing, and smooth out with a finger. Only do this for painted trim, the wood finish trim may look awful if you try to caulk the cracks. You can also fill the angle join cracks with the caulking, as well as the nail holes, or just use wood filler. You can then repaint or touch up paint the casing, or if the casing color was a close match, just leave it. Good luck!!
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